The north-east wall of Lønahorgi is wild, beautiful, and has an almost alpine character. The crack formations are dense in this part of the wall. The rock is compact and has high friction, and the routes are generally well secured.
The eastern side of Lønahorgi offers large sheer cliffs, wild hanging valleys and great views. A narrow and marked ridge stretches eastwards from the top of Lønahorgi. The pillar that gives access to the ridge from the northeast is called Østpillaren. The rock walls near this pillar offer great and relatively easy naturally secured rock climbing.
| Drying time | Routes | Grades | Height | Sun | Family friendly | Appriach |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 6 to 12h | 10 | 3+ til 6 | 150 – 220m | from 6 – 15 | No | 70-90 min. |
Lønahorgi with its 1410 meters above sea level, may not be the highest mountain in Voss, but none of the neighboring mountains can compare to Lønahorgi when it comes to aesthetics and character.
The north-east wall below Lønahorgi is wild and beautiful, and has an almost alpine character. Here, the snow lies in some places long into the summer. The left (eastern) parts of the wall are best suited for climbing. The season also starts here at the earliest, usually at the beginning of June.
The wall has a great variety of crack formations of all sizes in this part of the wall. The rock is quartzite, and in many places is very rich in formations. The rock has good friction and is solid. It is hard to find loose rocks and the routes are generally well secured.
Routes
Østpillaren, 6-, Smalarisset, 5+ Pionerruta, 4+ Startgropa, 3+ Navnløs, 5+ Several new routes have been climbed since 2022. However they still do not have a proper topo. For the most they hold the grades and characters of the routes mentioned in this blog.
Rappel return
A rappel return has been established following the “East pillar” route. The abseiling route was established by Steinar Hustoft and Øystein in June 2018. There are a total of 5 rappel anchors. Two ropes of at least 50 m are needed for the abseils. The first rappel anchor is located outside on the edge of the pillar, approx. 50m southeast of the top of the “Pionerruta”. The first abseil is about 35 meters long. After the third abseil, it is possible to interrupt the abseils and climb out towards the marked grass shelf near the entrance to the “Pionerruta”. Otherwise, you can complete the abseils down towards the entrance to “Østpillaren”.
Background and status
There has been sporadic climbing activity in the cliffs below Lønahorgi for a long time, and it is unknown who first climbed what. Only in recent years has there been more systematic logging of routes and climbing opportunities. Most likely, the “Pionerruta” has been the most used route to get up the ridge towards the top of Lønahorgi. During the winter, ski descents have been made on the same terrain.
In 2021, two probable first ascents were reported in the wall to the right of the “Pionerruta”, and there is considerable potential for several new routes and variants. There is little topo and information, but most of what is available is collected here. In the season of 2022 at least 4 new routes were established further right from pioneerrute. You can find more information in the facebook group klatring i Vossaområdet.
Would you like to join us on a rock climbing trip in Lønahorgi?
The trip is suitable for those who have tried climbing before, and are in normally good hiking shape.
Directions and approach
Parkeringsplassen er den samme som for klatringa på Staup. (Google maps).
From the car park, cross the bridge and turn right onto the path at the signs for Breiming and Svartahorgi. The path goes through peaceful pine forest and gradually gains height. Along the way, you pass the beautiful potholes in the river Breimo (bathing area!). You then pass by the mountain farms of Moldbakken and then Breiming, before a steep ascent takes you around the waterfall over the tree line and into the impressive Årdalen. Now you enter a hanging valley shaped like a huge amphitheater.
The approach continues diagonally to the left over grassy hills. There are scattered animal tracks that you can follow, but not a clear path. From this point you can clearly see the wall, so keep following in the general direction to it. When the water flow in the river is high, it can be difficult to cross.
The entrance to the “Pionerruta” is directly to the left of the uppermost large shelf of grass under the wall. The formation the route follows is easily visible. It takes up to 1.5 hours to get started.
The entrance to the “East pillar” starts outside on the edge of the pillar, about 100 meters lower than the entrance to the “Pionerruta”. The approach there takes about the same amount of time.
more info
Feel free to follow the Facebook group “Klatring i Vossaområdet” for the status of the development of climbing at Lønahorgi.
