Climbing in Staup, Voss.
Just north of the center of Voss are the beautiful climbing cliffs called Staup. Easy routes, idyllic surroundings, good rock quality and a short distance to Voss make this an attractive climbing area for many. Here you will find the information you need and a climbing guide for Staup.
|Drying time:||routes:||Grades:||Height:||Sun:||Family friendly?||Approach:|
|Short ( < 6h)||30||2+ til 7+||12 – 28m||From 6 – 16||Yes.||2 min.|
Staup is a great place for families and climbers looking for easy to moderately difficult routes. The areas under and near the cliffs invite relaxation, play and enjoyment. The field also has a bunch of easy trad routes. Most of the routes follow partly continuous lines along slabs, cracks and diedrals. It is easy to get to the top of the cliff to set top ropes, although abseiling from trees is required to access the anchors.
Some of the routes may have some loose rock. We therefore recommend the use of a helmet. Farthest south on the cliff, an anchor has been set close to the ground. Here you can repeat routines to turn at the top of the routes.
The area is used for grazing for sheep and goats. Be aware that the goats easily climb up to grade 3+ and chew on anything that looks interesting (ropes, gloves, snacks, shoes, slings, children etc).
Background and status
The cragg was “discovered” by Øystein and Bakkeng in the spring of 2019. Since then, Wild Voss has collaborated with the Voss Climbing Association to clean the cliff and establish bolted climbing routes that are suitable for both novice and more experienced climbers. The cragg is under development, and it is expected that the number of routes will increase to around 40 within a couple of years. Some of the routes have a sling on the first anchor, that means that they are under development and not yet safe or open to climb. As the routes get more popular and repeated, the quality gets better, but sill some holds may be dusty, so feel free to bring a brush and do some fine brushing if needed.
Routes and Sectors
The “waterfall sector” is easily visible from the car park, and is bounded to the south by the river Breimo’s beautiful waterfall. This part of the wall dries very quickly after rain. A bonfire with benches has been established at the foot of the routes. There is an outhouse 50 meters north of the campsite. Follow fixed ropes along the waterfall to get to the top of the cliff (be careful when there is a lot of water in the waterfall).
«Pandemi Terapi» (5-), «Dia Gon Alen» (5+) og «Villsau (6+)». Trad routes recommended «Lambada» (5-) og «Spesielt Interessert direkte» (4).
The “Big slab”, or central sector, is just to the right of “waterfall sector”. There are several quality moderately difficult bolted routes here. Several of them maintain high quality with persistent climbing on small lists. Your balance and slab skills will be tested, but watch out, you can still find some power moves, especially towards the top. Access to the top of the routes via the rope ascent along the waterfall.
«Ei rute til Marte» (6-), «Vossafår» (6) og «Mr puss og børst» (7).
“Sector north” is at the opposite end of the cliff, near the sheep barn. This cragg has two long routes that can either be climbed in two pitches, or with a 70m rope. A fixed rope has been established to a shelf that gives access to rigging top ropes for the shorter routes. There are several routes under development here. The sector in 2023 has several more routes and new ones are under development, so we should upgrade the photo and topos of this area soon. This cliff also looks much nices and cleaner nowadays than on the current pictures.
«Brent av sola» (5-), «Kohort» (5-), “Laban” (4-).
Staup climbing guide
The cragg is under constant development, and there is no completely up-to-date guide. We have the best climbing guide available for Staup and you can download it for free here:
Do you want to try climbing with a guide?
Climbing is for everyone! We have climbing experiences and climbing courses that are suitable for your level.
How to get to Staup
The climbing cliffs at Staup (Google maps) can be reached by driving the E16 out of Voss in the direction of Gudvangen for about 7 km. At the exit to Smalahovetunet, turn left (opposite side of the road) up the steep gravel hill. Parking at the top, on the left before the bridge. NB! Show consideration for grazing animals along the gravel road! Close the gates behind you.
It is not allowed to camp in Staup. Neither under the cliffs, on the fields, or by the car park. The area is used for grazing for different animals throughout the year, so please try to step as little as possible through the fields and stick to the paths. The river at the side of the cliff is used as drinking water for the farmer owning the area, so be especially careful with not contaminating this water source. Do not leave behind toilet paper, garbage or food. As Staup is becoming a more and more popular climbing cragg it is important to limit our impact.
You can follow the facebook group «Klatring i Vossaområdet» for fresh status of route development, and for trying to find climbing partners.